Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Decorating the Burress' Home for Christmas

Halloween has come and gone and it’s time to get ready for the Christmas season.  The countless tubs of decorations that have been gathered over many years are to be brought from the storage building to the house.  There are also eleven trees to be brought up as well.  Several years ago, storing all the decorations and trees became an issue, so the building of a separate storage building just for decorations was erected. 

Decorations are brought up in stages starting with the trees and outside decorations.  The outside lights are put out the first warm Saturday of November.  The trees are brought up starting with the ones in rooms that are in the inner part of the house.  This is followed up with the trees that are closer to the doors and finally the ones that are outside on the porches.  Setting up the trees is probably the easiest part of the process.  Some are pre-lit and others have to be strung with lights.  Easy part done, now comes the fun.  Each tree has a separate theme, so finding the appropriate box filled with decoration is sometimes a game.  You know, sometimes they just get labeled wrong.  Ms. Janet, better known as “Ms. Christmas” smiles and laughs when I have brought some of the wrong boxes.  She just slides them aside and walks down to the storage building and helps me find the right ones.  It is nice to have an understanding wife, cause even though I don’t really know how many boxes there are, I stopped counting at thirty. 

The tree in the rose room is decorated with small porcelain dolls, pastel pink and silver balls and assorted crocheted snowflakes.  We also place larger porcelain dolls in the tree and around the bottom of the tree to hide the base. 

The tree in the office/playroom is for the kids and is known as the “Stuffed Animal” tree and is decorated with stuffed animals that have been passed down through the years along with others purchased at assorted yard sales and other consignment stores.  For decorations around the base, we use old toys, such as an baby bed and doll bought at an estate sale, old teddy bears, an old doll of Ms. Janet’s that wears clothes that her Mom made for it, and a mixture of other assorted old toys that we have.  We also have a Lego Christmas Village on display that J.T. made.  The kids know that this is their tree and are allowed to remove and play with any of the decorations at any time.  This has allowed us to teach them to leave the other trees alone, because they have one to call their own. 

Moving on to the kitchen, we have the “Shiny Brite” tree in one corner decorated with shiny brite ornaments.  These ornaments are reminiscent of days gone by from my childhood.  It is one of my favorite trees.  It also has ceramic Snowmen on it along with red and green plaid twisted ribbon that is intertwined with a red ribbon.  Some of the ornaments are handmade and hand painted by Ms. Janet and the Grandkids. The lights are the large old timey lights.  In the other corner is another brightly decorated tree with lots of ornaments covered in glitter and lots of brightly colored ribbon that has been intertwined with each other.  We affectionally call this the red-green tree.  The tops of both trees are filled with branch looking picks that are bright and sparkly.

In our bedroom one tree has a garland made of faux berries, redbirds, bird nests, birdhouses, and other ornaments made from grapevine. This is the one dubbed the “Nature Tree” and is always a favorite among our guests at Christmas time.  The other tree in our bedroom is decorated with glass Christopher Radko and Old World Santa Claus’ and green ribbon with red polka dots.  There are other brightly colored ornaments on this tree also.  This tree sports the new LED lights that give it a different effect when lit.

The two small flocked trees in Ms. Janet’s bathroom are simply decorated with a burlap skirt, brightly colored twigs, and Old World Santa Claus.’  This room has pine cones, pine branches, Old World Santa Claus’, and birdhouses.

The utility room or shall we call it the laundry room has a small tree that is decorated with angels, rust colored balls and rust colored ribbon wound all through it.

In the main hallway is the blue and silver tree, adorned with blue and silver ornaments, along with assorted doodads that resemble crystal fobs from antique chandeliers.  The lights are the new larger led’s and really make this tree pop.

The living room houses the star attraction with a fat, full tree that has over one hundred fifty snow baby ornaments.  It also has ceramic icicles, gold balls, tons of dried hydrangea blooms, and dried rose blooms. This tree has many yards of gold ribbon twisted in and among its many branches, along with a topper made from gold colored stems.  The other tree on the other side of the room has photos of family from the different Christmas’ down through the years.  This tree is the family favorite.

I won’t elaborate too much on the next tree which is in the main bathroom.  It is actually a wall decoration which Ms. Janet made to hang on the wall to look like a tree.  It is simply decorated with pine cones and twisted ribbon.

This comes up to twelve trees in the house, along with fresh branches and twigs cut from evergreen trees to give the house that festive look and fresh holiday smell.  Pine cones are scattered and hung all through the rooms with cedar and pine branches, along with a multitude of wreaths made of grapevines, magnolia branches and leaves, and cedar branches.  Crocheted snowflakes, large and small hang from the ceiling from every possible place.  We try to incorporate as much live greenery as we can in the house by using it in wreaths, mixing it in with artificial garlands and sticking branches in the trees to fill in any bare spots. 

The tree on the front porch gets decorated with large lights and homemade ornaments.  The ornaments consist of paper towel tubes wrapped to look like peppermint sticks and different colored hard candy and packages wrapped in brightly colored paper, then clear wrap over that to add that extra zip.

The last tree, a small tree is on the side porch and is decorated with whatever we can find in the yard, such as berries made into a garland, grapevine and ribbon.

The rest is wreaths on windows and doors and garlands brightly decorated around the doors.

Christmas at the Burress’ Home is a treat and it stays up from November to February and takes about the month of November to put up and about two weeks to take down and another week to pack it back in storage.  It is hard work sometimes but worth every minute of it, especially when the Grandkids smile and say “It’s beautiful Mamaw.”

I hope everyone enjoys Christmas as much as I do.  It’s not about the gifts, but about family, friends, smiles, and most of all “The Lord Jesus Christ.”

“Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night”  


Selecting the perfect Christmas tree

The Christmas season is here and a lot of folks will be selecting a live tree this year.  There are some simple guidelines to follow to get the most life and beauty from your tree.

First, look for a tree that has branches and needles that are limber and pliable, not dry or brittle.  Make sure your tree is fresh smelling and very fragrant.  A tree that has sour or musty smell or readily losing its needles when you shake it is a good indication that the tree has most likely been cut for a good while.  Next, look for a tree the right height and don’t buy a tree too tall.  Be sure to check and make sure that the bottom of the trunk is long enough to fit in the stand. If the bottom is not long enough, some of the lower limbs may have to be removed, thus changing the appearance and shape of the tree.

Now that you have selected your tree, there is the chore of getting it home.  If you are transporting the tree more than a mile, it is recommended to wrap the tree in a tarp or protective covering.  Most tree lots nowadays have those net bags to wrap their trees for transport.   Now that you have your tree bagged, load your tree with the base to the front of the vehicle and tie it down securely.  

When you get home, cut a slice one half inch thick from the bottom of the trunk immediately before placing your tree in the stand.  Make sure the stand is large enough to accommodate the tree and do not shave the sides of the trunk to make it fit.  Be sure that the stand has an adequate water reservoir and always fill it with cold clear water.  A fresh cut tree will average one to three quarts of water a day, depending on the size of your tree.  A rule of thumb is a tree will use about a quart of water per one inch of trunk diameter per day.  Clean, clear, and cold water is the best solution for your tree, you do not need chemical additives to make your tree last longer. Do not use water retaining crystals or gels in the tree stand as they can cause lack of water uptake.

Keep your tree away from heat sources and if you can lower the temperature in the room, it will slow the drying process and help the tree use less water.  Use only UL approved lights and extension cords to prevent fire hazards.  Be sure and hang ornaments securely to prevent them from falling off or being knocked off easily.  Turn lights off when going to bed or leaving home for safety.

If you have pets, consider placing your tree in a room that they do not have access to unless you are home to supervise them.  Cats do like to climb in trees especially if another pet is chasing them.  Dogs, well trees are fair game for them and cats and dogs think that hanging ornaments are toys for their enjoyment.

When Christmas is over and it is time to remove the tree, take care to remove all ornaments and lights.  Carefully siphon any water from the stand and lay tree on its side on an old sheet, blanket, or tarp and remove the stand.  Wrap the tree and take outside for disposal.  Never burn your tree in the fireplace or wood heater as the sap can cause a flash or even clog the chimney and cause a fire.  There are recyclers who will pick up your tree to keep them out of the land fill.  Some farmers will take them to put in their ponds for the fish to hide in.  Another place is to take your tree to your city mulch yard if it has one.

The guidelines for a live tree that you intend to plant after the Christmas season are basically the same as a cut tree.  Be sure and buy your live tree from a reputable nursery or tree farm.

Now that you are armed with all this information on selecting a cut or live Christmas tree, “Let the Hunt Begin.”

If you have any questions or comments, send me an email at colorsbytim@hotmail.com  or leave me a message at the Union County Extension Office at 662-316-0088.

Happy Gardening and keep digging in the dirt.


November Rose Care

November is here and while we still have a few blooms hanging on, it is time to get ready for winter.

Please continue to give your roses at least an inch of water per week if it is not raining. 

If you still have any black spot hanging on, spray your roses with Daconil.  Daconil is a great cool weather fungicide.  You will also need to clean the diseased leaves off of your roses along with the old mulch, if you have not done so already.  Be sure and remove disease trash from the beds and bag and remove from your property altogether. 

If you have not fertilized with 0-20-20, do so now.  If you have another dose will not hurt.  Use one cup for large bushes and one half cup for smaller bushes.  If you have not taken a soil sample this year, now would be an excellent time to do so.  Your local Extension Office has the sample boxes and instructions free of charge.  Once you have taken the samples, return them to the Extension Office along with six dollars per sample and they will forward them to Mississippi State University’s Soil Testing Lab for you.  Free shipping, you can’t beat that.  In about two weeks, your results will come to your home address and the great part is they will be in English, not some crazy, jargon that only a chemist can understand.  If you are uncertain about your results, send me an email at colorsbytim@hotmail.com and I will call you and help you out.

I would say about the middle of the month would be a good time to wind prune your taller roses.  Cut them back to chest high or about four feet for you taller folks.  I would also recommend pruning the lower twiggy growth from your hybrid tea roses.

Now it is time to finish up with maintenance for the winter by spreading a layer of your favorite mulch.  I like to put roughly four inches and for hybrid tea roses put an extra dose mounded up around the graft union.  This is a vulnerable point during extreme cold weather.  I recommend about eight to ten inches of mulch to be mounded up around the graft.

The roses have been beautiful this year and have brought much joy and color to our landscape.  They have also made many gorgeous bouquets in our home.

Tune in next January for some good tips to a beautiful rose garden.  If you have any questions or comments send me an email. 

Happy gardening and keep digging in the dirt. 

October Rose Care

Cool weather is here and you should be getting ready for the October and last flush of blooms for this year.   Stop all nitrogen fertilization in October; the only fertilizer to add now is a 0-20-20.  Give each large bush one cup and each smaller bush one half cup of 0-20-20, sprinkle around the drip line and scratch in, water well.  This will help the bushes ease into winter dormancy.

Keep up your spray program this month also, black spot and powdery mildew have not went to sleep for the winter either.  I use one half teaspoon of Honor Guard, three teaspoons of Mancozeb, and one ounce of Talstar per gallon of water.  Take care to spray the underside of the foliage as well as the topside, this is just in case you have had one last case of spider mites as I have had. 

If you have not had your soil tested this year, it would be a good time to do so.  Your County Extension Office can provide you with soil sample boxes and will also send those samples off for analysis. The results usually come back in about two weeks and are easy to read.  They will tell you if you need to amend the soil to readjust the ph.

If you have a place to store them it is time to start gathering materials for winter protection.  This could be compost, mulch, leaves, or pine straw.  It’s not time to add them to the beds yet, jut start stockpiling them.  We’ll do that next month.

Enjoy the October blooms, bring them in the house to put in vases, give them to friends, or pamper them to get them ready for a rose show.

If you have any questions or comments send me an email at colorsbytim@hotmail.com

Happy Gardening and Keep Digging in the Dirt.


September Rose Care

I hope by the time you read this you have already pruned your roses back to get ready for a fabulous season of fall color.  If you are running behind, get on out there and prune those babies back.  You can prune about one third off and cut about one half inch above an outward facing bud eye.

You can work in some granular fertilizer; 13 is a good all around one, the first of the month.  Don’t use any granular fertilizer after the 15th of September, only water soluble.  The middle of September give each rose about one gallon of a good water soluble fertilizer.  I use 20-20-20 or the blue water works fine too.  The last week of the month give each rose another drink with one tablespoon each of Epsom salts, fish emulsion, and a 10-52-10(Super Bloom) mixed in a gallon of water.

Be sure and keep up your spray program, this time of year roses are susceptible to powdery mildew as well as black spot.  I use one half teaspoon of Honor Guard and one heaping teaspoon of Mancozeb per gallon of water.

Most pests are not a problem at this time of year to roses, although there a couple.  Cucumber beetles (look like green ladybugs) seem to be swarming and can be controlled with a chemical called Talstar.  I mix one ounce per gallon of water and usually one application will do the job. The other pest is a moth that lays eggs on the blooms and foliage just below the bloom.  The old fashioned “Bug Zapper” works best to control the moths that lay the eggs, however to get rid of the egg and larvae you need a chemical called Dipel.  This comes in different strengths, so be sure and read the label and follow directions.

Please be careful and read the label on all chemicals, follow directions and remember more is not better.  Be sure to wear protective clothing, wear a respirator to protect your lungs, and goggles to protect your eyes.

Last but not least, be sure to water.  Give your rose bushes at least an inch of water a week and if you are going to show roses, you might want to water at least twice that.

The rose garden is a good place to teach your young child or grandchild colors and smells.  It is also a good place to teach about thorns.  My good friend and avid rose gardener, Damon Ligon, loaned me this photo of his baby girl, Macy, smelling a rose.  Isn’t she just the cutest thing you ever seen.

Send me an email with your comments or questions at colorsbytim@hotmail.com or you can send me a message on www.facebook/mastergardner.com 

August Rose Care

Rose care for August is fairly straight forward and can be slow.  This is going to be one of the hotter months and also one of the most humid.  Take great care not only to keep your roses watered, but also keep yourself hydrated as well.  During these hot times with little or no rain, roses will need water more frequently.  Water in the morning before the temperature gets too high to prevent a high rate of evaporation before the plants can take up the moisture and other nutrients from the soil.

Spraying roses in this heat needs to be done early in the morning to prevent burning or scorching of the foliage.  Watering well the day before spraying, will hydrate the rose and allow the chemicals and fertilizers to be absorbed into the plant system more readily.  My personal spray regimen seems to work well not only in my garden, but gardens that I tend for others as well.  I use one half teaspoon of Honor Guard, three teaspoons of Mancozeb, and two ounces of water-soluable fertilizer per one gallon of water.  I spray at least every ten days to help prevent blackspot.  I recommend that you give your roses a good dose of organics toward the end August to help them get ready for the fall flush of blooms that come about in late September and early October.  All of these products are readily available at local garden centers, home improvement stores, and at your local Co-op.  If you are experiencing insect problems such as aphids, thrips, or spider mites, there are sprays for them also.  Thrips, and aphids are easily controlled in most cases with a sharp blast from a water hose or in severe cases I recommend spraying with Spinosad or Permethrin.  If you have spider mites, I recommend spraying with bifenthrin.  Please read and follow label recommendations and remember more is not better.

Send me an email with your comments and questions and photos of your roses at colorsbytim@hotmail.com or visit me on www.facebook.com/mastergardner

Happy Gardening and keep digging in the dirt.

   

July Rose Care

Caring for your roses in the month of July means water, water, water. During these hot months such as July, roses will require more water than usual.  I recommend that you water deeply at least twice a week and to water in the morning instead of the afternoon.  I also recommend not to water overhead, but instead use a drip system or sprinklers close to the ground.  If you do not have an irrigation system, just turn the hose on low and lay it at the base of each plant and let it run for about a half hour per plant.  This will water the root system deeply and keep them from needing watering so frequently.

Fertilizing your roses should be kept to a minimum and should only be a water soluable type.  The only other form of fertilizer that I would recommend would be organics.  My formula is nine pounds of organics (equal parts of bone, alfalfa, cottonseed, blood meals and approximately two cups of fish emulsion to thirty gallons of water.  I stir it twice a day and let it steep for at least 48 hours.  This will make a good drench for your plants.  I like to give each large bush a gallon and the smaller bushes half a gallon.  This is only for the hybrid teas and the English roses.  Most of the other roses don’t need any extra fertilizer except what they get in the weekly spray program.

My spray regimen for July is as follows: mix one and one half teaspoons Honor Guard, three teaspoons Mancozeb, two ounces Monty’s Joy Juice, and two ounces fish emulsion. This mix is for three gallons of water and I spray this mix every seven to ten days.  You can substitute blue water for the Monty’s Joy Juice.  I try not to use any pesticides during July, as I grow vegetables in and around my roses and other flowers.

Last, but not least, keep your roses deadheaded. This will allow them to prepare for the next bloom cycle.  I  cut the stems back just past the first set of five leaves and about half inch above an outward facing bud eye.

Be safe and try to do your gardening in the early morning if you can while it’s cool.  Ms. Janet and I try to be out by  6:00 AM and get as much as we can done by 7:00 AM.  So far we have been able to keep up.

If you have any questions or comments send me an email at colorsbytim@hotmail.com or find me on facebook, www.facebook.com/mastergardner .  You can also tune in weekly to “That Gardenin’ Guy” at 8:00 AM Saturdays on WNAU1470 AM or listen online at www.wnau1470.com  and click on high school sports and then click on the player that is on your computer. Don’t forget to call in with your questions at 662-534-8133.

Happy Gardening and Keep Digging in the Dirt